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Gyprock Hell

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Created by ikw777 > 9 months ago, 3 Feb 2012
ikw777
QLD, 2995 posts
3 Feb 2012 11:29AM
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I'm doing some plastering and finding that my paper tape is bubbling under the wet plaster. The bubbles are quite obvious and unsightly, and of course when I sand it the sandpaper it cuts right through the tape and leaves hairy streaks on my joins. This has never happened before.

Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

ok
NSW, 1089 posts
3 Feb 2012 1:39PM
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are you a tradesmen?

ikw777
QLD, 2995 posts
3 Feb 2012 12:45PM
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Nope. I'm an amateur.

pweedas
WA, 4642 posts
3 Feb 2012 11:07AM
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It sounds like the joint compound is partially drying before the tape goes on.
It might be that you are too slow putting the tape on after you have spread the joint compound along the seam. If the compound starts to dry a bit then the paper tape doesn't stick properly and will bubble up later on.
You can stop this by doing the seam in shorter sections so it doesn't dry as much. (which is what I did)
The experts tape a long seam in about 60 seconds flat so drying is not a problem. It looks real easy but it's like everything else in life, it's only easy if you do it every day.
Apparently you can also wet the tape first but I didn't try this so I don't know how effective that is.

For big jobs it's probably best to put up the gyprock yourself but then get in a real person to tape the joints. They do it fast so it doesn't cost much and the job looks far better.

Bender
WA, 2236 posts
3 Feb 2012 11:27AM
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Anotehr option is to use the joint tape that is a mesh. Its heaps easier for less experinced punters. I have done quite a bit of flushing even though I'm a carpenter

nebbian
WA, 6277 posts
3 Feb 2012 11:39AM
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Bender said...

Anotehr option is to use the joint tape that is a mesh. Its heaps easier for less experinced punters. I have done quite a bit of flushing even though I'm a carpenter


Although note that the mesh is not suited for ceilings (no idea why though)

the gibbo
WA, 776 posts
3 Feb 2012 11:58AM
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Dont use mesh, its rubbish, more likely to crack

Put slightly more compound under the tape, you can always push the excess compound out along the joint when you bed the tape with the trowel, wont bubble this way

Bed the joint with compound, flatten it off, pre cut the paper tape to length, get the tape started in the joint about 300mm long, while holding the tape in one hand feeding, trowel along the joint, keeping the tape feeding straight, this way you push all the excess compound out as you go and the tape is bedded properly, go over the joint again with more compound if needed straight away, then 2 more coats fo plaster as manufacturers rec.

If you do get bubbles later let them dry, cut them out and fill

Or get someone else to do it and you can blame them

Mark _australia
WA, 23715 posts
3 Feb 2012 12:02PM
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nebbian said...

Bender said...

Anotehr option is to use the joint tape that is a mesh. Its heaps easier for less experinced punters. I have done quite a bit of flushing even though I'm a carpenter


Although note that the mesh is not suited for ceilings (no idea why though)




Expansion / contraction cracks prolly ??

ikw777
QLD, 2995 posts
3 Feb 2012 3:36PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I think pweedas has hit the nail n the head. I'll have to redo a bit to test and see.

SandS
VIC, 5904 posts
3 Feb 2012 7:23PM
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Only use paper tape in internal corners . Or you can also use metal internal corners

Use a sloppy mix to bed the paper tape in the corner using the corner tool

Always use mesh tape on all rebated and butt joints .

2 base coats , 1 top coat then sand

kyteryder
NSW, 692 posts
3 Feb 2012 7:40PM
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I use mesh tape on all joints. External joints use the bead.

Paper tape, will bubble if mixture is drying as it is applying.

marcbt
NSW, 25 posts
3 Feb 2012 7:58PM
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f**k all the gyprock off and use lining boards!

landyacht
WA, 5921 posts
3 Feb 2012 9:22PM
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had a similar problem working near a warm ceiling, the ex gryprocker at the shop said to make sure you squeeze all the air out as you run the spatula over it all . lay it on with a metal spatula the same width of the tape, then next layer of base coat has a wider spatula.
here in kal with blasting and the fairly regular earthquakes all the joints except ousde corners are paper tape, the mesh is a bit useless.
dont bother with the all in one compounds, use the proper base coat/top coat system.
too late to strip the bathroom out this season, have to wait till spring, besides i used up all the base coat making a plug for a new landyacht

Cassa
WA, 1305 posts
3 Feb 2012 9:52PM
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As Kiterider said , use mesh tape, apply a thin coat , then feed and press the mesh on using a wide paint scraper , using this method will alleviate the bubbling (mesh is much easier ) and make the joining process of joining correctly ( very important because not right means cracking later)much easier , then give a wipe , Gently but firmly ,( if that makes sense ) with a flat square trowell.
Make sure the edges are SMOOTH ! (easier to finish).
There is a trowell with a concave in the working edge which applies more product to the centre of the trowell when you apply the finish coat, this means you have a bit of coverage to sand , and not sand back to the mesh -- not a good look.
Hope this helps

If more info required pm me
Regards cassa

cisco
QLD, 12365 posts
4 Feb 2012 1:44AM
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marcbt said...

f**k all the gyprock off and use lining boards!


Yep. If I was building a house new I would use random groove ply before gyprock.

Gyprock is overpriced rubbish.

kato
VIC, 3532 posts
4 Feb 2012 6:43PM
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SandS said...

Only use paper tape in internal corners . Or you can also use metal internal corners

Use a sloppy mix to bed the paper tape in the corner using the corner tool

Always use mesh tape on all rebated and butt joints .

2 base coats , 1 top coat then sand


Was a chippy for 12yrs, did most of my own plastering and this is the only way i would recommend. Just back block all your ceilings and you,ll never have a problem.

the gibbo
WA, 776 posts
4 Feb 2012 7:59PM
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Have been a pro builder for over 20yrs and back to lots of repeat clients etc etc

Dont use mesh tape ever, it was originaly made for patching cracks and holes until lazy buggers got hold of it and used it everywhere, the only reason it gets used is cos its easier to put on(sticky back), it cracks after a while on walls,ceilings,corners everywhere

SandS
VIC, 5904 posts
4 Feb 2012 11:04PM
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the gibbo said...

Have been a pro builder for over 20yrs and back to lots of repeat clients etc etc

Dont use mesh tape ever, it was originaly made for patching cracks and holes until lazy buggers got hold of it and used it everywhere, the only reason it gets used is cos its easier to put on(sticky back), it cracks after a while on walls,ceilings,corners everywhere


Not in Vic mate , mesh every where except internal corners no dramas here .

kato
VIC, 3532 posts
4 Feb 2012 11:49PM
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SandS said...

the gibbo said...

Have been a pro builder for over 20yrs and back to lots of repeat clients etc etc

Dont use mesh tape ever, it was originaly made for patching cracks and holes until lazy buggers got hold of it and used it everywhere, the only reason it gets used is cos its easier to put on(sticky back), it cracks after a while on walls,ceilings,corners everywhere


Not in Vic mate , mesh every where except internal corners no dramas here .


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Forums > General Discussion   Shooting the breeze...


"Gyprock Hell" started by ikw777