...I was 14yo when I started surfing - a mate of mine found a grotty old 7'2" 70's single fin in bulk rubbish (council collection) and sold it to me for $2. I don't recall having any trouble getting up - but can certainly remember the feeling of trimming my first 1ft shorebreak - I was hooked!! Apart from injury, I've been going as often as I can for the last 29 years.
yup I first stood up around age 11 (year 6 at school).
I had a lid before that
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One School holidays we stayed at a family friends farm out at Permona (Noosa Hinterland) . I did a weeks work on the farm , in return I got an old 1980's thruster with channels.
The following week I spent all day every day in the water at 1st point Noosa.
I clearly remember some of my first few waves as a grom just doing this gumby bouncy trim thing.
I was soo stoked , happy and beaming with life.
I have been addicted to surfing ever since.
Life is great ![]()
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me brother pushed me in white water, already standing, when i was about 4 and 6.
I clearly remember the first time I cried the whole paddle out but was pumped when i would hit the shore.
me first tube that I made where i could see the lip hit the water in front of me; I was 14 or so except I remember the grin i had afterwards more vividly than the wave.
What a grin it was.
Age 5, My dad took me to ski resort
Age 10, I've become a ski instructor
Age 20, I've started snow boarding
Age 28, I've started kite surfing
Age 31, I've started speed riding
Age 31, I've started Paragliding
It is such an amazing life ![]()
Surfing @ 5yrs old (first time I stood up by myself)
Water skiing @ 19yrs old
Water ski instructer @ 21yrs old
Indoor rockclimbing @29yrs old
Im 38 now. ![]()