Here is someone from where i came from that loves surfing like many others. He is a "legend". I like how he describes the feeling and the soul of surfing 
I love seeing whimsical legendary old dudes sharing their passion, interrupted by advertisements for whimsical legendary and irrelevant, products and services.
Dark Side of the Lens has always been a favourite of mine.
It's almost the sole reason I got back into videography.
