The misses bought a 97 daihatsu charade from uphill wholesale motors in wangara for 3000 dollars. It has 130km on clock abd on the way hone overheated and was bubblinv water into overflow 1.5 litres. The car was returned within 24 hours and i expected money back as i assume its the head gasket. Anyway i asked for a refund and this was denied and they will get a mechanic out on monday. As the car is older than 10 years no return policy seems to exist in wa. Is there any options available?? Worried they will just pour chemiweild into radiator for quick fix!!
Not sure about WA but Vic have a mandatory 3month warranty.
If you can get a reputable mechanic to diagnose the problem but don't tell the dealer you have had this done ( sounds most like a blocked radiator or head gasket )
When you take it back to the dealers mechanic ask them to put in writing what works they have done to complete the repair.
It may also pay to drop a mention of the relative ombudsman as well.
Pull out the dipstick, what color is the oil..... translucent and honey color, or like a cappuccino? Or what is the color like underneath the oil filler cap?
Without meaning to be disrespectful, but why the hell would anyone pay $3k for a 1997 Daihatsu Charade?!
Brand New VW Polo, base model, manual - $15,990 Drive Away...
Toyota Yaris, base model - $15,490...
Very cheap car financing these days too.
Or put a little bit of effort into finding a good one that is 4 years old, for roughly half of that...
Or a 04/05 Charade for $4k to $5k would be a better spend?
It could also be the thermostat not opening.
Check the temperature of the radiator when it bubbles.
If the radiator is still cool then it means the water is not circulatiing.
This can be due blocked radiator as said above, or faulty thermostat.
Thermostats are cheap and easy to replace.
Take the cap off the radiator or overflow tank and check the smell of bubbles.
If they smell like exhaust gas then it can be cracked head or blown head gasket.
Neither of these are cheap fixits but can be patched up with chemiweld or bars leaks.
It might be that's what the previous owner did to get rid of it.
It can last a year or two, or a week.
If you're not happy with it, then take your complaint to consumer protection.
The fact that it didn't even get home before giving problems would probably mean you can get your money back.
Even without a warranty, the law states that whatever you buy has ot be "fit for purpose".
If you couldn't even drive it home, this would be a good indication that it was not "fit for purpose" when sold to you.
If consumer protection get involved it makes the car yard more inclined to get it sorted out fast.
Often, all it takes is a phone call from them to inspire the car yard to get things sorted.
Although, if they say they are sorting it out already
^^^
Simondo - I'm sure you mean well, but that's not being helpful at all. More like rubbing salt in...
Select to expand quoteGPA said..
^^^
Simondo - I'm sure you mean well, but that's not being helpful at all. More like rubbing salt in...
Oops, Sorry!
Yes, I did mean well. 
Select to expand quoteGizmo said..
Pull out the dipstick, what color is the oil..... translucent and honey color, or like a cappuccino? Or what is the color like underneath the oil filler cap?
This would be ideal to help diagnose.. as Pweedas says it might be just a thermostat or similar.
If you really believe they're shonky:
I would be going back 1st thing monday morning to dealer, ie opening time. Take your own mechanic if possible. If you can't find or afford one, take a large mate to pretend, have then only grunt, not answer questions, and watch carefully, ie lean over bonnet not from corner of the room. If their mechanic tries to ask him questions, have him say "mate pretend I"m not here, I'm simply observing as a witness for any future legal action".
This is because their mechanic will have a close relationship with them, a lot of trade-ins will need work for RWC and in a closed-loop buddy buddy system they will do each other favours where they are confident of not being caught. But they won't cut corners with a silent witness observing.
Plus you can be taking photos all over, plus going thru log book & taking photos of log book, etc, anything to show them that you're serious.
Between now and then I would research 'statutory warranty' for WA, consumer law, etc. (I guess you're trying that here). Try to have some understanding.
Google 'no win no pay' lawyers, see if you can download & print a scary piece of paper, like a legal letter of demand template on a law firm letterhead. Put that on a clipboard, make notes on it as you go over the car.
-----
Having said all that, a blown head gasket doesn't make a car a lemon. In a car that age, I would actually prefer a properly repaired blown head gasket to a ticking time bomb.
I would be changing all rubber parts of the water system, as water dropping out while driving is the main cause of it happening. I have, however, owned 2 cars that blew head gaskets due to metal parts of the water system corroding from the inside out - fairly impossible to see that coming.
Jonopark: These are excellent cars, but owners have to keep an eye on the water level. The motor only has to overheat for a short period and the head cracks. It's very easy to do if owner isn't on top of it. I would say this happened with the last owner and they got rid of it.
Just following on from above.
Read your contract. In SA we have a 2 day cooling off period for 2nd hand vehicles from dealers. An owner get return vehicle, get their money back, no questions asked.
If you don't have this in WA, then return car and talk to the dealer. They might not have tested vehicle (due to a disconnect between saleman and mechanic). Although this is incompetence, you might find they will back flip and give you your money back.
I recommend you request money back. Don't accept a repair. This type of repair is marginally viable due to the part availability and cost. It happened to my car, and it was almost not worth repairing. I ended up doing my own repair (brought a refurbished head from a wrecker).
Failing that, send a letter to dealer asking for money back.
Failing that (as pweedas) said, involve consumer affairs. Once you have consumer affairs involved, don't let the dealer try to communicate with you 'to strike a deal'. Let Consumer Affairs do their job and follow their process exactly.
J
Sorry mate, but why the F&%@ would you buy a car from a dealer which gives no warranty? I don't understand? Why not just buy private if that is the case? You'll get a car for half the price. Were you lulled into a false sense of security, simply because they're a dealer and overprice their cars by a ridiculous amount?
My advice: Tough nuts. Maybe next time try a private seller. I recently got a '99 mercedes ml320 for $3k in NSW. Been running like a dream ever since. Every used car I've bought privately has been run like a dream till I've got rid of it. Few years ago when I was between jobs I bought a 97 ford falcon LPG for $800. It ran without a hitch until I sold it later for $1400.. If you learn the signs of a well maintained car you can get away with a steal. Sounds like you got duped into thinking dealerships are more respectable sellers than a private sale.
There is mandatory 3mth warranty, but yeah may not be for cars over 10y/o?
Johno if they won't talk to you or you think the answers they give are sus, ring Consumer Affairs / Fair Trading / whatever they are called now... they have a specific section for disputes with the motor trades and car dealers
Anyway some of you blokes are pretty harsh....
Haha i know it sounds a little expensive for what it is and probably is.
We have been looking at corrollas on gumtree but all seem to be approaching 200km without haviing timing belt done and are pretty rough for under 3k. This car had new radiator, starter motor, tyres and is in imac condition. Well i thought it was. The misses is from germany and just started a new job so needed a reliable car now. Hence we trusted a dealer and she has no more than 3k at all to spend.
The car does come with a 1 year warranty but not provided be dealer. Basically we have 1k to spebd on engine problems and 250 for electrical, clutch and gearbox through a third party insurance. We take it to a mechanic and apply for refund.
But the fact it didnt make it home and she starts on monday i demanded money back but dealer would not comply. Maybe i should of just taken car to mechanics instead and just tried for insurance warrenty straight away!!
3 month statutory warranty applies in WA. However as the car is more than 12 years old no warranty applies in WA.
The small claims ombudsman may be the way to go if you strike any of the above, they cost nothing but a bit of your time documenting the evidence.
Why buy a bmw? I can only imagine the price of parts for a bmw and its done 275km. Oh and the fuel is an issue. Wanted something cheap effecient and simple. Oh and reliable!!!!
And cheers stubbies ill look into that. And thanks for the constructive input. You guys know who you are!!
Select to expand quoteJonopark said..
Why buy a bmw? I can only imagine the price of parts for a bmw and its done 275km. Oh and the fuel is an issue. Wanted something cheap effecient and simple. Oh and reliable!!!!
A BMW, being German designed and all, you wouldn't have the same problems as you would with the overpriced 97 daihatsu charade lemon that you bought. It's not me that's seeking advice on a water-sports forum on how to fix it.
FFS, no need to shoot the messenger.
I appreciate the comments. I just assume that german car parts are harder to get and hence more expensive. also at 275 i also assume the engine may be due for a rebuild in the near future. Dont get me wrong adolf a bmw would be nice to have, just wouldnt think practicle for a low budget student.
Adolph give us a price for a head on a Charade vs a head for the BMW you suggest?
I know they are more reliable, but for old cars anything is possible so lets pretend he bought the Beemer and the head went?
How about consumables like brake pads etc? C'mon do a real comparo...
I wish you luck Jono mate .... fair trading will look at the sales contract you guys signed ... and make sure the car they sold is safe and then roadworthy for sale ... at best they will ensure it is fixed for you to use as intended ... I wouldn't count on any refund unless it is stated on that contract you signed
IF you score a refund my advice is to head over to someone like as one example John Hughes and snap up a brand new Geely which comes with a warranty and for under 10G to drive away around 50 bucks a week or less on finance ... even a part time job two days a week would guarantee two payments alone mate
Something like that is peace of mind cheap transport WITH a warranty and a company which hates negative customer feedback
Just my 2 cents and , again , I wish you & your girl luck with it all mate !
Select to expand quoteadolf said..
A BMW, being German designed and all, you wouldn't have the same problems as you would with the overpriced 97 daihatsu charade lemon that you bought. It's not me that's seeking advice on a water-sports forum on how to fix it.
.
And now we all know Adolf knows fk all about cars. 
Select to expand quote
97 daihatsu 3000 dollars
uphill wholesale motors in wangara
being up a hill they could certainly see you coming
Paid 2400 for my 96 Charade G202 1.5 yrs ago. Sweet little motor, yes sure with a 3cyl 1000cc engine it aint breaking any records. But its never failed and is cheap to fuel.
Good luck with getting a result from the dealer.
^^^ being in the trade I'd like to hear what you reckon?
Regardless of warranty I think any big dealership would do the morally right thing and take the car back - it only made it a few km and it was not even hot weather and it farked up badly. I bet it would have failed cylinder leakdown and/or comp tests but I also bet they didn't bother. Change the oil, shonky paint touchup (if you're lucky) polish and out the door at triple $$$ that they traded it for. 
Arm chair experts
I know jack about cars but wtf would you pay 3k on a car like that, there are 100's of better options out there for 3k.
Wait a few months then go down there at night time with a balaclava and a can of gasket stripper spray up the cars!
Select to expand quoteMark _australia said..
Adolph give us a price for a head on a Charade vs a head for the BMW you suggest?
I know they are more reliable, but for old cars anything is possible so lets pretend he bought the Beemer and the head went?
How about consumables like brake pads etc? C'mon do a real comparo...
Replacing a head/gasket is a labour intensive job. If it is the head, it could cost upwards of $1.5K, most of that would be labour, and then there are no guarantees that damage to the engine may have been caused by the broken head/gasket. It might be a cheaper option to source a new motor.
Didn't you watch that episode of the Brady Bunch, where Greg bought a lemon and his dad said 'Caveat Emptor'?
That's why I always pay a bit extra to get a car checked out by my mechanic before buying it.
Select to expand quoteWA71 said..
My advice is don't take any advice from here, geez
Dog, that's good advice... But I was thinking someone would come up with the "winner" answer, in terms of "X days legal cooling off period, for WA cars, over X amount, etc.."... Or vice versa... "you are screwed because..."... ?!?!?
Select to expand quoteSimondo said..WA71 said..
My advice is don't take any advice from here, geez
Dog, that's good advice... But I was thinking someone would come up with the "winner" answer, in terms of "X days legal cooling off period, for WA cars, over X amount, etc.."... Or vice versa... "you are screwed because..."... ?!?!?
Trade the "lemon" in at a dealer that offers $3000 bucks for your old licenced bomb - there is a couple of them in WA 
