Out in the surf on what ever craft is your choice.
A wave you can pick up presents itself.
You think, or are sure you see one behind it, maybe a bit bigger, better.
Which one do you take?
If your experience is anything like mine, in the past you've taken the first one, only to get a mediocre ride, turn around and see the bomb that could have been yours.
Experience also tells you that if you let the first one go, the second may be crud and you should have taken the first.
Can someone give me a 100% guaranteed method to making the right decision all the time?
Thanks in advance.
if there is a choice, i try never to take the first or last waves in a set. the first one never seems to be good size and the last one tends to be messy
the first one might be smaller but better shape,
the second one will be bigger but might just be a fizzer, no decent wall.
if the third isnt as big as the second it will be sloppy water caused by the mess of the second wave. your fins will not grab as hard.
all of what i just said would be nonsense if you were surfing a beachy reef break or point break.
just choose a wave a commit it
I've always found the second or third of a set are the best waves, always sucks taking the first of a big set going down with the lip and wearing the rest of the set on the head.
biggest isn't better, usually ends in being trapped on the inside after a huge section closes out, not good on a low tide. i usually just ride in and then ride out toeside till i see a good set gotta love switch stance
Thanks guys, I'm going to test the second wave theory.
Now, if I could just get some field research time.
I'm a wave slut and will take anything. Today I had an endless stream of head high waves i'd ride one in turn around jump a few bits of white wash and then there'd be nother beauty presenting its self.... oh yeah. I recon i rode 30 waves in an hour... glorious indeed.
Ha ha, I was surfing on my own in the Maldives, the left on Lowafushi
I counted 12 waves per set regularly
Very mentally stressfull
I go for quantity, like a dog chasing cars down the street. Chase after everything you can with a grin so big that your tounge hangs out the side of your mouth. If you get 30 waves for the day then surely 10 must have been great. And if not, try to take another 30 tomorrow and see how you get on.
A windsurfer mate of mine said to me .Dont go for the first couple go later nearer the end .Then if you stack it more time to get out of trouble before the sets starts again.This works if the waves are big.
ok heres what i actually do.
on a shore break i'll take the decent wave I can see. I don't count or care what part of the set its in. If its at the start of a set i may be able to pick the last one also i've im fast enough.
on a point break i can see the sets coming in more easily and will speed up or slow down to pick the best wave closest me at the time. But stuff waiting around for a better wave. I'll keep riding and grab the better one next time.
If theres a bloke riding the wave i'll leave that wave to him and pick myself a virgin wave to ride. I'd much rather ride that virgin (wave) than be stiring someone elses porrigy wave.