I don't not much about the bcf float switch . I use to have a rule float switch and it was no good for my set up when the water dropped below the float switch and turned off the pump the remaining water in the hose would flow back and fill the bilge and set the pump of in a continuous cycle.
I solved this issue by installing a water witch 101 waterwitchinc.com/product/model-101-bilge-switch/
available at whitworths .
it has a 15 second delay so after the water drops below the switch the pump stays on for a further 15 seconds the switch is mounted above the pump allowing it to pump the bilge just about dry in that time
Select to expand quotekurt88 said..
I don't not much about the bcf float switch . I use to have a rule float switch and it was no good for my set up when the water dropped below the float switch and turned off the pump the remaining water in the hose would flow back and fill the bilge and set the pump of in a continuous cycle.
I solved this issue by installing a water witch 101 waterwitchinc.com/product/model-101-bilge-switch/
available at whitworths .
it has a 15 second delay so after the water drops below the switch the pump stays on for a further 15 seconds the switch is mounted above the pump allowing it to pump the bilge just about dry in that time
This is common on most boats especially as the boats get bigger. This is easily solved by fitting non return valves just after the pump. My boat has this on all the pumps.
Select to expand quoteJode5 said..
This is common on most boats especially as the boats get bigger. This is easily solved by fitting non return valves just after the pump. My boat has this on all the pumps.
+1 Way to go, however bilge solid debris can jam the non return valves open. If the hull outlet of the pump ever goes below water, such as when heeled................you know what is going to happen.
Voice of experience. A match stick did it to me ONCE!! Never again.
Select to expand quotecisco said..Jode5 said..
This is common on most boats especially as the boats get bigger. This is easily solved by fitting non return valves just after the pump. My boat has this on all the pumps.
+1 Way to go, however bilge solid debris can jam the non return valves open. If the hull outlet of the pump ever goes below water, such as when heeled................you know what is going to happen.
Voice of experience. A match stick did it to me ONCE!! Never again.
Ditto...
Select to expand quoteJode5 said..kurt88 said..
This is common on most boats especially as the boats get bigger. This is easily solved by fitting non return valves just after the pump. My boat has this on all the pumps.
If the float switch is instaled such way that will alowe development of air pocket betwen centryfugal impeler (except displacement pumps) and non return v/v, pump will not pump, it will spin, heat up and drain batteries
I installed a Whitworths (Cat No 91869) non-return valve close to the pump outlet and had a nice dry bilge for quite a while.
Then one day, I discovered the bilge pump running continuously but the water level in the bilge was not reducing.
Turned out the rubber flap in the one-way valve was stuck shut, aided by the head of water above it. The pump didn't have enough guts to open the valve.
Cleaned up the valve only to have the same thing happen a month later.
After realising what would have happened if I'd actually had a leak, I threw away the one-way valve and now sponge the bilge dry of any remaing water.
At least now I know as long as the bilge pump can pump water, it will end up outside the boat. 
regards,
allan
Select to expand quoteDatawiz said..
I installed a Whitworths (Cat No 91869) non-return valve close to the pump outlet and had a nice dry bilge for quite a while.
Then one day, I discovered the bilge pump running continuously but the water level in the bilge was not reducing.
Turned out the rubber flap in the one-way valve was stuck shut, aided by the head of water above it. The pump didn't have enough guts to open the valve.
Cleaned up the valve only to have the same thing happen a month later.
After realising what would have happened if I'd actually had a leak, I threw away the one-way valve and now sponge the bilge dry of any remaing water.
At least now I know as long as the bilge pump can pump water, it will end up outside the boat.
regards,
allan
+1
My opinion is that it is best to avoid non-return valves with smaller bilge pumps - they either clog up and stick open or even worse, clog up and stick closed. Stick closed can burn out the pump, flatten batteries and sink the boat. Its also possible to get a little air bubble or air lock that works back to the pump making it impossible to push the head.
Rule gets around this problem by putting a tiny bleed hole that drains the no-return valve to avoid the air lock problem. It's really important to clean this hole if you have one.
A
Yep. I've got a Rule and it's fine.
The instructions say not to install a one way valve - I get a little back flow after it turns off, but no cycling problem.
Cheers
Bristle
