My little Bukh is using oil, I can't see it blowing out behind me but if I look down I can see blue
smoke above the water. The cheapest thing to do is to keep pouring oil into it, but that's not my style.
After an hours running there's a noticeable drop on the dipstick. I believe it's a fairly straight forward
job unless any of you guys that have done it tell me otherwise. I saw the Bukh man at the show
and he said they stock everything I need but I forgot to ask if I can order the rings before I start
the job or if I have to wait. So you fellas that have done the job, can you advise me. Thank you.
Sam, I would recommend you wait til you get the rings out and see their exact size, if you do not know the motor's history and just presume they are standard size you may find that it has oversize rings due to a re-bore.
+10 for good advice !
With sample in hand, and the bore of the cylinder(s) checked for wear, one could seldom go wrong.
Refurbishing the injector(s) at the same time would be prudent.
Yes thanks guys....I seem to remember in days gone by that the ring size was stamped on the inside
of the ring. Is that right ??, and is that where I look on the Bukh ?. It's always burned a little bit, but
seems to have got worse in the last month. Is it just wear and tear or a broken ring do you think ?.
I can call on Sandy Wallace, a local really good mechanic if needed. And sirG I had the injector
refurbished less than two years ago so should be OK.
Sam, if there is a noticeable drop on the dipstick after only 1 hr of motoring that would seem to be a real problem. Yes you may be dealing with a broken ring but I have even had a car with a crack across the top of a piston which caused lots of smoke despite running OK for many, many Km's. It may also be caused by worn valve stem seals, whereby oil circulating around the top end/valve gear leaks down the stem of the valve and into the combustion chamber.these are very easily replaced, and often are, when the motor is having a fair bit of work done on it. Re: the ring size you may find it stamped on the underside of the ring. Good Luck with the work.
Not sure how the DV10 is balanced, but my local mechanic said the DV20 is a real pain to get balanced after a rebuild.
Have you considered the FTC product mentioned elsewhere? Won't help stuffed rings or a worn bore, but will help rings that aren't sealing due to bore glaze.
I would use the FTC first as well. Could be just glazed bores and gunk build up in ring grooves. Too many people baby these engines and run them stationary to charge batteries etc. Use the FTC at the strong ratio first and give the motor a bit of a work out.
Also check the oil your using is the right classification. Avoid modern oils. Probably CF and if your spending more than $15 for 4 litres then your possibly killing the engine with kindness.
Thanks for the response fellas. The bores would not have been glazed while I've had it, I am aware
of how it happens and avoid it.
Ramona the oil is mono.....30 grade I think.
FTC. I don't know what that is......please explain.
Thanks Ramona. Is it a one time only application, and for my small engine what size bottle am
I looking at. I assume its put into the fuel tank.
I think the smallest container is one litre. I used the recommended dose first up with my Gardner then used up the rest of the bottle in the weaker mixture till it was gone. I had several fuel tanks that I could isolate and had one with about 30 litres in that I added the FTC to and ran that down. The improvement was dramatic. Went from 3 litres of oil a day down to about a litre a week.
There is also a product "liquid intelligence " , give the manufacturer a ring . Very helpful, western suburbs of Sydney, they do post out.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
Ramona..do you have any experience with the Liqui Moly intake decarboniser ??
No.
OK ,so I had to think about what I was going to do without going overboard (so to speak).
I decided the smallest cheapest option might indicate if the problem is big or small. So I
bought a can of Liqui Moly from Repco ($20). Easy to use, you just squirt it in the air intake
with the engine running at about 2500 RPM. I used the whole can as instructed then went
for a full throttle blast around Pittwater for an hour. The dipstick showed no oil used, Yay.
When squirting the product the engine revved to about 5000 revs and made a noisy clanging
sound, like piston slap, the noise died off shortly. After the treatment the engine sounded
"sharper" and seemed to rev easier. There was no sign of any smoke on the trial run except
for a bit of black smoke when I throttled up.
So I am thinking maybe the problem was gunked up piston rings, if so, then this stuff did the job.
I run my engine every week, but only to get out to the sailing ground so I must admit that it
hasn't been run hard enough or long enough to keep it clear but it's OK now. I guess you would
call it an easy fix.
Probably never had enough load on the engine and the oil might be not the best to use
Years ago dodgy brothers would sprinkle Ajax down the intake 
Ha ha
Liqui Moly intake decarboniser in a grease form moly can be abrasive so to me to take the glaze off yep
Yes that's right HG. I should have given the product its full and proper title as you did.
It might be cheap and easy, but it worked for me. BTW good to hear from you HG
