Hi. We had a fantastic 6 weeks through the Whitsundays from Yeppoon last year and receieved some really great itinerary advice on this forum. Now its time for the next leg of the trip from Townsville to Darwin.
We are leaving in early June. Any advice from those who've already done it? What are the must see spots along that part of the Queensland coast?
Would love to hear from anyone who can offer some insights.
Cheers
Eventide
Fitzroy Island (Scenic, good walks), Hinchinbrook, The Wessel Islands (if you like remote, crocodiles and oysters off the rocks), Cooktown (interesting locals, good walks, nice, laid back atmosphere), Outer reefs (for fishing if weather allows, go and play with the big fish, and I mean BIG fish :)).
Lizard Island is also really nice for snorkelling and walks. They used to have a little bar area on the beach where you could go ashore and buy a meal and drinks some nights too.
Lizard Is was nice but check the coral bleaching. Reports are devastating. Looks like Cooktown sth to Townsville got hit this season.
Sorry
www.abc.net.au/news/2016-04-20/great-barrier-reef-bleaching/7340342
www.thestar.com/news/world/2017/04/10/scientists-weep-as-australias-great-barrier-reef-struck-again-by-large-scale-bleaching.html
And then there's the mangrove dieback 7000ha. ![]()
www.abc.net.au/news/2017-04-16/erosion-mangrove-dieback-strikes-again-gulf-of-carpentaria-qld/8442434
BTW if this heads for HeavyWeather I'll delete the post.
Lizard Island is also really nice for snorkelling and walks. They used to have a little bar area on the beach where you could go ashore and buy a meal and drinks some nights too.
Great thanks so much
Presuming you want to day sail so as to take in the highlights, the following:-
Ex Townsville first stop Orpheous Island.
Zoe Bay, Hinchinbrook Island and do the short trek up to the waterfall. As with everywhere on this trip, watch out for crocs.
Bowden Island.
The Hole in the Wall (Mourilyan Harbour).
The Frankland Islands.
Fitzroy Island.
North East of there Thetford Reef. Well worth the effort, several moorings to choose from though mostly commercial and if you go right into the reef it is well protected from a sou' easter. Coral is as good as it gets.
Cairns for reprovisioning and fuel and a perv on the backpackers. If Gypsy Dees is still going it is a good night out for jazz lovers.
Double Island for overnight anchoring.
Port Douglas.
Bloomfield and /or Cedar Bay.
Cooktown.
Lizard Island. Limited provisioning available. North West Bay is where the "cruising types" hang out. I have heard that it has become a bit of a bun fight there between what sounds like low lifes hanging there and thinking they own the joint. Be wary.
You are now getting into territory where you need to be very self reliant.
Around Cape Melville and you will find the Flinders Group of Islands, a mandatory stop. Southeast of there is Princess Charlotte Bay where, if you go ashore with a big bucket and a hook, you will get more mud crabs than you can poke a hook at. If you poke your long boat hook down a crab hole he will grab it and not let go. Dangle him over your bucket and he will gladly join his mates. The crab holes are in the creeks so again watch for crocs.
You are now getting into an area where calm anchorages may be far between and you may have to overnight sail so expert navigation is necessary.
The next stop is one not to be missed. The first and last time I was there was in 1972 when I was 2nd engineer on HMAS Barbette. We had a couple of Cairns coppers on board for the purpose of busting some hippies growing dope there. I could go into details but the story would be to long for here. It was quite comical.
The place is called Portland Roads and there was a bit of infrastructure there back then such as a wharf to which we secured our 100 foot patrol boat to and a narrow railway line going back to what was once a town. It was once an export point for iron ore from Iron Knob. There is a bit of a settlement there today and according to Google Earth a couple of guest houses. Worth the stop.
From there you are on your own. You may encounter "mother ships" that re-supply trawlers.
Albany Passage is worth the passage if the tide is in your favour. Tidal currents in this area and around Thursday Island can run at 6 knots or more so I hope your engine has plenty of horse power.
T.I. will be your last provisioning spot before Darwin some hundreds of miles away unless you go into Gove. One of the Seabreezers did the trip a couple of years ago. I am surprised he has not chimed in.
This is the kind of voyage that will test you big time. I hope you have planned well and are fully aware and capable.
Bon Voyage!!
Presuming you want to day sail so as to take in the highlights, the following:-
Ex Townsville first stop Orpheous Island.
Zoe Bay, Hinchinbrook Island and do the short trek up to the waterfall. As with everywhere on this trip, watch out for crocs.
Bowden Island.
The Hole in the Wall (Mourilyan Harbour).
The Frankland Islands.
Fitzroy Island.
North East of there Thetford Reef. Well worth the effort, several moorings to choose from though mostly commercial and if you go right into the reef it is well protected from a sou' easter. Coral is as good as it gets.
Cairns for reprovisioning and fuel and a perv on the backpackers. If Gypsy Dees is still going it is a good night out for jazz lovers.
Double Island for overnight anchoring.
Port Douglas.
Bloomfield and /or Cedar Bay.
Cooktown.
Lizard Island. Limited provisioning available. North West Bay is where the "cruising types" hang out. I have heard that it has become a bit of a bun fight there between what sounds like low lifes hanging there and thinking they own the joint. Be wary.
You are now getting into territory where you need to be very self reliant.
Around Cape Melville and you will find the Flinders Group of Islands, a mandatory stop. Southeast of there is Princess Charlotte Bay where, if you go ashore with a big bucket and a hook, you will get more mud crabs than you can poke a hook at. If you poke your long boat hook down a crab hole he will grab it and not let go. Dangle him over your bucket and he will gladly join his mates. The crab holes are in the creeks so again watch for crocs.
You are now getting into an area where calm anchorages may be far between and you may have to overnight sail so expert navigation is necessary.
The next stop is one not to be missed. The first and last time I was there was in 1972 when I was 2nd engineer on HMAS Barbette. We had a couple of Cairns coppers on board for the purpose of busting some hippies growing dope there. I could go into details but the story would be to long for here. It was quite comical.
The place is called Portland Roads and there was a bit of infrastructure there back then such as a wharf to which we secured our 100 foot patrol boat to and a narrow railway line going back to what was once a town. It was once an export point for iron ore from Iron Knob. There is a bit of a settlement there today and according to Google Earth a couple of guest houses. Worth the stop.
From there you are on your own. You may encounter "mother ships" that re-supply trawlers.
Albany Passage is worth the passage if the tide is in your favour. Tidal currents in this area and around Thursday Island can run at 6 knots or more so I hope your engine has plenty of horse power.
T.I. will be your last provisioning spot before Darwin some hundreds of miles away unless you go into Gove. One of the Seabreezers did the trip a couple of years ago. I am surprised he has not chimed in.
This is the kind of voyage that will test you big time. I hope you have planned well and are fully aware and capable.
Bon Voyage!!
Thanks so much for this excellent info. Some great insights.
We are no strangers to tricky navigation (and crocs!)having sailed from Perth to Darwin previously. Looking forward to seeing this part of the world. Thanks again
Thanks everyone for the excellent input. Pleased to say weve just completed the sail in 6 weeks. Some unseasonally cool weather but exhilarating sailing up the east coast then a benign Gulf crossing.
The highlight was Lizard Island. The Hole in the Wall and Wessel Islands also spectacular.
We are back at work for a couple of months before we begin the next leg from Darwin to Perth in September.
Tbankd again for all the excellent info.
Magnetic island
Orpheus
Hinchinbrook
Dunk
Fitzroy
Port douglas
Hope island
Cooktown
Lizard island
Stanley Island
Morris island
Overnight to Cape York
Seisa
Port Musgrave
Gove
Rargala Island
Coral Bay
Alcaro Bay
Darwin.
Hope that helps
The run thru the Albany passage is a must do so time the run with the tide.
The bay next to the cape is also a must do up there with a shallow sandy bottom to easily walk in from a cat. Surprises the buggery out of the 4w drivers who get there the hard way but don't get to look at the same point from other side.