Gday,
I have a scuba set up (tank out of date), is it possible to get some extra long hose like this (or other? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Divers-Air-Breathing-Hose-15M-10MM-Hookah-Diving-Hose-10-Delivery-/271422692836?pt=AU_Scuba_Diving_Snorkelling&hash=item3f320d9de4 . and connect it to the tank, & leave the tank on deck while cleaning/inspecting the hull, to save handling the heavy tank with BCD in & out of the water?,
Other option maybe a cheap 12v hookah/power dive or similar set-up.
cheers
I have done the same thing, not sure about your out of date cylinder, I priced hose(you really need 8mm or 1/4 inch, very hard to find joiners for the 10mm air breather hose) and regulators, to save hassle I ended up buying one of these,www.diveimports.com/shop/index.php
Thanks for the link pumpnjump, seems like a good solution, I didn't realise they made them with long hoses, thought I would have to fabricate something myself, cheers
You talk about buying a hooka hose and using it on scuba tank ....BAD IDEA ... the scuba hose will need to be high pressure , not too sure on hooka but pretty sure they are not going to pump out 120 bar pressure , think they are more low pressure / high volume .
the hose and fittings you would need would cost a packet.
buy a hooka or get the tank tested and use it as designed and buy one of the hull cleaning setups .
I sometimes borrow a mates diving gear to clean our hull. He has a tank with about 15m of hose, you can leave the tank on the jetty. It's a cave diving set up. The hose is high pressure diving hose.
If you have a first stage regulator on your scuba tank (and you will, they all do) then it's not high pressure air going to your second stage regulator. There's only ONE high pressure hose that comes off a scuba regulator and that goes to your contents (pressure) gauge. It's the only one that needs to be high pressure to give a true reading. The others are normal hose.
After years of renting tanks I finally bought myself a steely for the same purpose so interesting thread. Bluemoon, your tank needs to be in test if you're going to get it filled at a shop.
On the issue of the 15 m hose: you can't use a BCD so you can only use weights, your breath and movement / holds to control your depth. You're working from zero to two metres - shallow is hardest to control depth. There is some risk in that given that people have died ascending from 2 metres and holding their breath. Poodle / others, how to manage depth using a long hose and no BCD? Or is this only a problem in my head?
Also, issue of how to keep it from dragging out the side of your mouth.
Select to expand quoteDrRog said..
Also, issue of how to keep it from dragging out the side of your mouth.
You wear a harness with a fixture to attach the hose to and any strain on the long hose is taken by the harness rather than pulling the mouthpiece out.
I just wear a springsuit if cool, some weights & fins. No BCD. I sometimes tuck the hose under the belt, but usually just put the reg in my mouth. Note that this is in a pen in relatively calm & sheltered conditions. When I say HP hose, it is a 15m length of "normal"HP dive hose, that runs from the tank nozzle to the mouth piece.
To put it simply, a normal scuba set-up with an extra long hose 
I'm a scuba diver too, but for boat maintenance, you can't beat the simplicity and convenience of a Hookah. While there's the upfront cost of the compressor, figure out all the money you'll save in tank refills and schlepping gear back and forth to/from your dive shop over the years. Also, it's great to know you _always_ have compressed air on board whenever you need it, e.g., whether it's to unfoul a prop or just go exploring underwater.
I purchased a 12V DC electric model (Airline's Model 12V160-3) over a petrol model because I didn't want to carry extra fuel. The electric system is also quieter, less smelly and lighter, weighing in at only 10.5 kg.
Thanks all for the replies.
I ended up getting this 15m hose from the same company pumpnjump posted a link to, cheers. www.diveimports.com/shop/index.php & simply replaced my existing short 2nd stage regulator hose with this 15m one. looks easily long enough for my 25ft yacht leaving the tank onboard.
ive got my steel tank in being tested at a fire protection company about $35 comes back empty so have to get it filled at dive shop. if im conservative should get a few hull scrubs from one tank.
I chickened out on buying a cheap pump off ebay, wasn't convinced they were 100% safe, if they not intended for breathing and certified, cheers
Why bother using scuba or hookah when a wet suit, and snorkel does the job. After all we are not talking about the QE2 but a 25 footer.
I do my Adams with two lengths of old halyards, one port one starboard of the keel from bow to stern, and two lengths across, front and aft of the keel.
Up and down, with the snorkel gear l go, and in few hours it is done. If you do it often enough, as you should, only takes an hour. The ropes give plenty of grab points to pull yourself up and down. No flippers or lead either but l wear a boot, hood and gloves for sure.
I dive, so l got the gear but could not be bothered setting up for such short time. In winter use the 7mm suit in summer 3mm.
I scuba dive too and I'm an active snorkeler too. I agree that setting up scuba gear for a short job is more trouble than it's worth, but setting up the Hookhah is trivial. Clip leads to battery. Attach hose. Turn on compressor switch. Done.
With a Hookah (or other dive gear for that matter) you can stay underwater continuously - no constantly having to surface to breath then dive down again. I would say you're at least twice as productive, so you can get the job done in half the time. Also, there are other underwater jobs that really benefit from being able to stay underwater until you're finished - such as un-fouling a prop.
I used to make do without a Hookah, but now I own one, I would not leave home without one.
Yeah. That is all understandable. If you got a smallest yacht - mine is a 28 with 1.47m keel - and l am not pressed for time, the snorkel 'll do.
I use a soft or medium scrubbed from Bunnings, $3.60 ea.
Yeah. That is all understandable. If you got a smallish yacht - mine is a 28 with 1.47m keel - and l am not pressed for time, the snorkel 'll do.
I use a soft or medium scrubber from Bunnings, $3.60 ea.
Select to expand quotescruzin said..
I scuba dive too and I'm an active snorkeler too. I agree that setting up scuba gear for a short job is more trouble than it's worth, but setting up the Hookhah is trivial. Clip leads to battery. Attach hose. Turn on compressor switch. Done.
With a Hookah (or other dive gear for that matter) you can stay underwater continuously - no constantly having to surface to breath then dive down again. I would say you're at least twice as productive, so you can get the job done in half the time. Also, there are other underwater jobs that really benefit from being able to stay underwater until you're finished - such as un-fouling a prop.
I used to make do without a Hookah, but now I own one, I would not leave home without one.
Yes I have to agree. Once you have a Hookah you can't go back. Yes you can do most of the work with a snorkel but the difference with a hookah is the ability to just hang alongside your propeller and clean it or change anodes etc. The extra insurance of being able to take a close look at your mooring equipment and change shackles and swivels etc soon out weighs any initial costs.
I use a snorkel at the moment, but the problem is here moored in a river system we get about 20mins of slack water(neaps) & about 5 mins during spring tides, It just about kills me....its dangerous & could quite easily drown....& I already have most of the scuba gear.
Suffered a set back in the plan this week however, got the old tank tested(no problems), then took it to the scuba shop to get a tank air fill....could not do it!!, these tanks (this one is 1987 build) have been taken out of service, so now need to get a new tank
It's actually not true that they have to be taken out of service. Some dive shops will tell you this because they don't WANT to fill them, but an in test tank is an in test tank. There is a lot of misinformation out there about this after a tank exploded at South West Rocks while being filled a couple of years ago. People interpret the RECOMMENDATIONS from the inquiry into this however they choose to. My guy fills my old alis no worries. There are no official directives on this that carry any ACTUAL legal weight at all. Like most of the dive uindustry, it's just rumours and opinions dressed up as "laws".
Peter
Select to expand quoteBlueMoon said..
I use a snorkel at the moment, but the problem is here moored in a river system we get about 20mins of slack water(neaps) & about 5 mins during spring tides, It just about kills me....its dangerous & could quite easily drown....& I already have most of the scuba gear.
Suffered a set back in the plan this week however, got the old tank tested(no problems), then took it to the scuba shop to get a tank air fill....could not do it!!, these tanks (this one is 1987 build) have been taken out of service, so now need to get a new tank
Same here. I am in a strong tidal river. Twenty minutes is plenty for most jobs on the bottom at the mooring. Just need a bit of careful planning. I sometimes run a rope from the bow so I can hold my self in the tidal stream to scrub the side. At the prop its not such a problem as I hold the shaft with one hand. The hookah is secured in the back of my catamaran tender so in a worst case situation when the current runs harder than I can swim I could pull myself back by the hose.
Take it back to the test station to get a air fill, if they refuse ask for the test money back.
There was a series of Al. tanks condemned some years ago, but that was because of a problem with the valve thread.
Tanks do explode, but its mainly an operator problem... not checking test date, overfulling etc.
Easy way out.... learn to hold your breath.....
I do hear that BlueMoon got his tank test money back and has returned to the drawing board!
