Good afternoon everyone.
As some people might remember, several years ago I cam and asked advice about the purchase of a yacht...well several years, significant amounts of research and many discussions with my wife I am getting very close to purchasing my first yacht.
The yacht in question is a 1981 Top Hat MkIII, and she is in need of some TLC, but then what yacht that age isn't.
The thing that is concerning me is the mast step. Now before everyone tells me this needs to be discussed with a marine surveyor, I will be calling him tomorrow afternoon, but I was wondering what the collective wisdom of the seabreeze forum would be able to offer first.
I've attached three photos of the mast step, basically it has some rust on it. I can't see any indication of it being rusted through, but being such an important component of the yacht, I am concerned about the structural integrity of it.
As I said, I will talk with a marine surveyor and get their opinion, but has anyone met a situation like this? Is it likely to be a structural issue, and if so, what sort of cost am I looking at to get it repaired/replaced.
Thankyou for all your help and advise, this forum has been most helpful leading up to this point.
Regards
Alyosius
Wearing my corrosion engineer hat. Doesn't look too bad from limited photograph inspection. Would require the mast to be removed (essential for overhaul and rigging replacement anyway). Then I suspect that the existing mast step Could simply be er galvanised or a new one fabricated if hidden corrosion exists. Not a big deal either way.
Thanks for the quick reply Frant. The rigging is currently 5 years old so, pending inspection, I was hoping I'd get a couple more years out of the rigging before having to go to the expense of replacing it.
Would taking a stiff wire brush to it and the repainting it limit the extent of corrosion until I go to replace the rigging anyway or is this something I would need to tackle sooner rather than later?
Select to expand quoteknight said..
Thanks for the quick reply Frant. The rigging is currently 5 years old so, pending inspection, I was hoping I'd get a couple more years out of the rigging before having to go to the expense of replacing it.
Would taking a stiff wire brush to it and the repainting it limit the extent of corrosion until I go to replace the rigging anyway or is this something I would need to tackle sooner rather than later?
I suspect that if you put a bit of effort into cleaning/chipping the rust and then coat with inhibitive primer and epoxy you will get many years life from that component. Doesn't visually appear to be structural metal loss and if you can stop further deterioration then should be fine.
However, there does appear to be a great deal of fear of pulling the rig out of a boat. It's not such a big deal and worth doing, certainly annually or at least every two years for a thorough rig inspection and service.
Hello Knight,
First you need to visit this site www.tophatyachts.com where the problem of mast Girders has been well discussed.
Looking at your photos I would suspect that the 12 holding bolts will need to be [replaced?] and resealed as well.
The girders have a curve across the beam and a slope towards the bow so just taking measurements to rebuild one is problematical.
If you feel you need a new one I can give you the original manufactures name [he still has the patterns] or you will need to take yours to a steel fabricator.
Looking at your photos I think all you need to do is a sandblast, check for structural completeness and a re-galvanize.
Sent from off Cape Gloucester QLD 
Hi Knight , it is not necessary to pull your rig out for servicing every one or two years ,as suggested in another post above.
replacement every ten years is the standard maintenance plan .
The mast girders are extremely over-engineered in the first place, & I agree it looks mainly cosmetic, & pretty standard corrosion for that part & its age. Scratch/grind.file (whatever) the worst rust out, rust converter, cold gal & some stop-rust type paint & it'll be fine for another 10 years or until you get around to lifting the stick out earlier.
And yep pop over to the top hat site, the more the merrier.
Well thankyou all for your advice I went ahead with it and got a survey and while I'm still waiting for the actual survey report to be emailed to me, I have the verbal. Its mostly all good, so looks like I will have a Top Hat shortly.
There was one issue identified that I wasn't expecting however. It appears the rudder is probably waterlogged - how badly not sure yet, probably won't know until I get the actual report.
The surveyor is concerned that the shoe and rudder will part company...which would be a problem if I happened to be underway at the time....
I'm not overly concerned - I wasn't expecting a 30+ year old boat to be without a few issues, and apart from that the repairs required seem to be cosmetic and the surveyor says that I am unlikely to lose the rudder delivering the yacht to Newcastle, which was my main concern.
My concern at this point is, what is that sort of repair likely to set me back? Apparently its recommended to remove the rudder in the water - thats fine I'm a scuba diver so have no issues with that as an idea, but what am I likely to have to do to repair the rudder itself and seal it?
I know its very much a how long is a piece of string question, but I was hoping you might be able to give me a ballpark idea.
Thanks all
Actual costs for rudder repair.
Slipping Fees SYC $419.50
Sandringham Marine (00001140) $209.00, Materials
Bunnings $13.14 Tools
Bunnings $58.17 Sanding/grinding
Whitworths $199.00 Micron Extra Antifoul (took opportunity to re-antifoul)
Tidal Marine & Dive $800.00 Labour hire
Total $1,698/31
Swarbricks quote for new rudder to be built from original moulds.
Excluding delivery from WA and no indication of time to deliver. $4550.00 + GST
Full story in photos of the repairs.
pekeri.com/cgi-sys/suspendedpage.cgi?page_id=1192
Not a top hat but some similarities.
Hope this helps.
Correction to previous post:
Rudder repairs component $800.
The total was for all works done for the rudder and keel repairs.
Apologies if I caused any confusion.
Select to expand quoteknight said..
Well thankyou all for your advice I went ahead with it and got a survey and while I'm still waiting for the actual survey report to be emailed to me, I have the verbal. Its mostly all good, so looks like I will have a Top Hat shortly.
There was one issue identified that I wasn't expecting however. It appears the rudder is probably waterlogged - how badly not sure yet, probably won't know until I get the actual report.
The surveyor is concerned that the shoe and rudder will part company...which would be a problem if I happened to be underway at the time....
I'm not overly concerned - I wasn't expecting a 30+ year old boat to be without a few issues, and apart from that the repairs required seem to be cosmetic and the surveyor says that I am unlikely to lose the rudder delivering the yacht to Newcastle, which was my main concern.
My concern at this point is, what is that sort of repair likely to set me back? Apparently its recommended to remove the rudder in the water - thats fine I'm a scuba diver so have no issues with that as an idea, but what am I likely to have to do to repair the rudder itself and seal it?
I know its very much a how long is a piece of string question, but I was hoping you might be able to give me a ballpark idea.
Thanks all
Most boats with fibreglass rudders will have water in them. When you go on the slips you will see water draining out for ages. Drill a small hole to let the water drain out. Just before painting, bog the hole with body filler. You can reseal the top where the SS shaft enters the fibreglass with epoxy if you like. Back in the water the different expansion rates between the 'glass and the SS steel will soon allow water to reenter. The only real problem is the possibility of crevice corrosion on the tangs welded to the shaft inside the rudder.
www.boatworkstoday.com/videos/rebuilding-a-foam-cored-rudder-part-1/
Well I've got the report back and the but about the rudder is included below:Select to expand quote The bottom rudder gudgeon showed evidence of de-zincification and requires further investigation as to the amount of deterioration. The rudder was water logged with water running out the entire time of inspection, this area also requires further investigation.
The only other surprise was the mention that the engine mounts need to be replaced (which I imagine is also not cheap....)
I would welcome any further points or suggestions but at this point there is nothing noted that will stop me buying it.
Well I've replied to Knights concerns on the Top Hat site but I must comment that MOST Top Hats do not have leaking rudders!
One thing I missed was the engine mounts, is that the timber beds or the engine fixing mounts? What sort of engine? Might not be as costly as you think!
Sent from the Piles in Bowen Marina
