Im contemplating removing the steel engine chassis in my Walker and making glassing in timber engine bearers
whats a good solid timber to use ?
Would laminated epoxy ply work OK , I have plenty of marine ply off cuts here I could utilize
you have a lot of choices there HG , depends a bit on the size required ? does it have to span a distance ?
common size in F17 Kiln dried Hard wood , 90 x 45 or bigger ... strong and stable, ok if not getting wet constantly .
other heavy stuff .... Merbau will handle more moisture may shrink a little
the ply would be ok if it was not flexing too much after you laminated it with epoxy . i don't think epoxy resin flexes very well . the beauty of epoxy is it doesn't shrink . .................. epoxy glue is awesome !!
polyester resin likes to flex . but will shrink a little .
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
you have a lot of choices there HG , depends a bit on the size required ? does it have to span a distance ?
common size in F17 Kiln dried Hard wood , 90 x 45 or bigger ... strong and stable, ok if not getting wet constantly .
other heavy stuff .... Merbau will handle more moisture may shrink a little
the ply would be ok if it was not flexing too much after you laminated it with epoxy . i don't think epoxy resin flexes very well . the beauty of epoxy is it doesn't shrink . .................. epoxy glue is awesome !!
polyester resin likes to flex . but will shrink a little .
No Sands it would not run full length just past the rear engine mount . On the steel frame in the photo where the angle Iron start to change angles
where the two bare patches are in the photo .
Donks walker has glassed engine bearers
Id build it in layer my layer with epoxy if I used ply and make a rear engine mount bulk head for extra support.
I think if I did do it I would epoxy some temp rectangular up right strips into place the same height as the original steel frame clamp them to the inner side of the steel frames both sides once the epoxy went off then remove the steel frame it would give me the original mounting plane to work off .
sorry Hg , i don't understand . maybe i should just turn up Lobby Loid and the c/bs ?? 
Mine are timber too heavily glassed in place and very solid not shore what type of timber. pic was before new motor I gave them a good clean up and a few coats of epoxy primer then top coat .there was no sign of a any moisture or rot they would be 30+ years old
id
Select to expand quoteh28kurt said..
Mine are timber too heavily glassed in place and very solid not shore what type of timber. pic was before new motor I gave them a good clean up and a few coats of epoxy primer then top coat .there was no sign of a any moisture or rot they would be 30+ years old
id
nice straight tight grain ....... probably some kind of hard wood ......... rainforest timber or gum tree ...
These are Donks in his walker sail master hope he doesn't have a copy right on them 
I wouldn't use ply HG because even the best marine ply is more prone to rot than a solid piece of hardwood.
If the existing frame is a simple angle iron thing, it could be refurbished, reproduced in new steel and galvanised or reproduced in stainless.
The policy I have with my boat is to fix or repair what is existing unless it is obviously bad design and not try to reinvent the wheel. Not much sense creating more work for your self that is not vital.
If you are gong to do it anyway good solid aged hardwood is the go. Definitely not ply.
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
These are Donks in his walker sail master hope he doesn't have a copy right on them
Hi Haydn
No worries post as many as you like
Regards Don
Select to expand quoteDonk107 said..HG02 said..
These are Donks in his walker sail master hope he doesn't have a copy right on them
Hi Haydn
No worries post as many as you like
Regards Don
I used Australian grey-box (Eucalyptus Microcarpa) for my new engine bearers. It was well aged, as hard as nails. I epoxy coated it just to be sure.
There are plenty of good australian hardwoods to choose from. Marine ply would be a little soft and would compress over time.
Ive been thinking I might just leave the steel frame in for now any way just clean it up and paint it along with the bilge
good idea , one good coat of paint will probably see you out . give it two coats , and its like a bonus inheritance for someone .... 
Select to expand quoteSandS said..
good idea , one good coat of paint will probably see you out . give it two coats , and its like a bonus inheritance for someone ....
Old farts never die they just smell that way Sands
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..SandS said..
good idea , one good coat of paint will probably see you out . give it two coats , and its like a bonus inheritance for someone ....
Old farts never die they just smell that way Sands
rock on HG !!!!
Select to expand quoteSandS said..HG02 said..SandS said..
good idea , one good coat of paint will probably see you out . give it two coats , and its like a bonus inheritance for someone ....
Old farts never die they just smell that way Sands
rock on HG !!!!
If your going to paint it, try Por-15. I've never used it, but I've heard great comments on it. And it likes a little rust so you won't have to go too overboard on cleaning the current metal bits..
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
Ive been thinking I might just leave the steel frame in for now any way just clean it up and paint it along with the bilge
Now you are thinking. If you wire buff it and let it slightly rust, use the Killrust System or if you pull it out and blast it use the POR 15 system as Toph recommends.
For info on POR 15 go here. www.ppcco.com.au/por.html
