Evening all.
I want to install jacklines and need some advice.
I'm not quite ready to cross continents, but I do want to do some Pittwater, and Port Hacking jaunts (from Syd Harbour) with my family this spring/summer.
First up I want to install some anchor points in the cockpit. There's usually five of us on the boat (or just me), and it would be handy to have a system where we can all be attached and not get in a tangle. Though my main priority is to string up my two young boys while we're past the heads.
Down the track, I'd like to run some line the length of the boat. Google is a bit vague and there's a fair bit of debate on the subject. So I'd appreciated some expert advice, sketches, photos etc before I start drilling holes in my boat.
Thanks.
You should be able to attach jack lines to your stanchion bases.
For anchor points around the cockpit, putting the harness line through any open base cleats you might have and back hooking them should work if the cleats are not often used.
I put a strong padeye, not the cheap ones, on the deck outside each side of the cockpit at the front of the cockpit/aft end of the cabin. The jacklines run to the bow cleats. You clip on inside the heady sheet and can go to the bow without any interference.
MB also has a ring in the cockpit underneath the hatch to clip on before coming out of the cabin.
Using the stanchions might be a simple expedient method for attaching jacklines, I would suggest to leave the stanchions for their normal purpose and run the jacklines on their own secure points. You would normally slide or fall onto the lifelines with multiple stanchions taking the load. The jackline may put more load on a single stanchion.
Select to expand quoteMorningBird said..
I put a strong padeye, not the cheap ones, on the deck outside each side of the cockpit at the front of the cockpit/aft end of the cabin. The jacklines run to the bow cleats. You clip on inside the heady sheet and can go to the bow without any interference.
MB also has a ring in the cockpit underneath the hatch to clip on before coming out of the cabin.
Using the stanchions might be a simple expedient method for attaching jacklines, I would suggest to leave the stanchions for their normal purpose and run the jacklines on their own secure points. You would normally slide or fall onto the lifelines with multiple stanchions taking the load. The jackline may put more load on a single stanchion.
Use the folding Wickard pad eyes for cockpit strongpoints. Flat webbing jack lines are best as they do not roll underfoot and create a trip hazard. Suggest run a jack line along the centre of the cockpit so that clipped on persons can't fall out of the cockpit. Adequate strongpoints for helmsman. In a big seaway if standing at the wheel going downhill I like to clip on to both strongpoints and effectively be lashed to the wheel.
Not permissible under special regs to use staunchions as jackline attachment points. Use cleats or dedicated pad eyes.
Do get some expert advice on the location of jack lines and tethers.
Out of interest we had some custom jack lines made up in Marbehead Masachusetts USA. The sailmaker had made all of the "safety" lines for Circus Soliel and assisted somebody doing a PHD thesis on the strongest method of sewing loops into webbing. It's actually surprisingly scary how little stitching is used. There is a very fine balance between too little stitching being the weak link against too much stitching weakening the webbing. I must admit that every time I inspect my jack lines I just hope that this guy wasn't just talking crap.
Ppl
Edit
Just looking at pics of my stormboards . Cisco or HGO2. Would you like to visit Geelong and give me some instructions on applying varnish. I have never applied a coat of varnish to any boat that I have owned and it does show.
frant ..Cisco knows how to lay varnish .
Id asked him ages ago he,s your man
get it straight from the horses mouth
Im a sikens man
Jacklines should be flat strapping so you can walk on it. On rope you can roll your ankle and maybe go overboard.
Get your sailmaker to make them up as there is an approved stitching pattern required for the end loops to comply with Aus Standards.
Sent from the Shaggers rally at Cape Gloucester.
Select to expand quotefrant said..
Edit
Just looking at pics of my stormboards . Cisco or HGO2. Would you like to visit Geelong and give me some instructions on applying varnish. I have never applied a coat of varnish to any boat that I have owned and it does show.
I only ever use oil based varnish. I like Feast Watson external clear. One thing I do after sanding and before the first coat is wipe the timber with a turps soaked rag and allow the excess to evaporate off. My theory is that the turps assists the clear to penetrate the timber somewhat.
I like the oil based because I think it is less brittle when cured or shall we say a bit tougher. Another reason I like it is because it is spot repairable as opposed to having to re do the whole thing. Most important for upper deck bright work is multiple coats (seven coats for the seven sons of Sinbad) with light sanding between coats. The sanding aids the coats from delaminating when they get bumped as they surely will.
Varnished timber on deck will make a yacht look very beautiful but a lot of varnish work on deck is for those who spend all year getting it just right for their annual showing at "The Wooden Boat Show". I do think there should be some varnish work on the uppers for tradition's sake such as the tiller or the grab rails. Many are the yachts one sees with the varnish peeling off the wash boards. If they are painted white and have varnished handles, they look just as good.
I have seen a yacht where all the "bright work" was painted mission brown. From anything more than 20 feet away you wouldn't pick it.
While the material used and the correct stitching is a good start, don't neglect the screws connecting it all to the boat.... Doesn't anyone know if there is a 'standard' for the attachment , gauge,length etc?
Whitworths will get them stitched for you. I measured MB up and went to the Mona Vale shop and they had them ready a week later.
Take them off when not needed so they don't deteriorate in the sun, and they don't trap dirt under them.
Whithwort's cattledog page 85 Whichard Lyf'Safe Jackstays!
Use them for years. Non slip, flat, UV stabilised, comes with clips.
Highly recommend it.
Select to expand quotesirgallivant said..
Whithwort's cattledog page 85 Whichard Lyf'Safe Jackstays!
Use them for years. Non slip, flat, UV stabilised, comes with clips.
Highly recommend it.
+1
Thanks for the feedback. Ive been off the line.
What about fixing? Does a metal plate behind the cleat do the job?
Select to expand quote2loneswordsmen said..
Thanks for the feedback. Ive been off the line.
What about fixing? Does a metal plate behind the cleat do the job?
The cleats should already be well secured to the deck.
Make sure:
you use a solid plate or large thick washers under each padeye securing bolt,
you put the padeyes on a solid part of the deck,
the tether won't foul the heady sheets etc,
as noted above only use Wichard padeyes (don't be tempted by the same size cheap ones as they don't have the required safe working load).
