http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-12-GANG-LED-SWITCH-PANEL-WATERPROOF-SLIM-TOUCH-CONTROL-PANEL-BOAT-CARAVAN-/281109111827?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417368a413
I am considering using one of these wondered if any one thought they might be OK? very compact
With LED indicator lights it should be OK.
I recently did an audit of all my systems and found that the thing consuming the most power was the switch panel indicator lights!
Needless to say that they are gone
You should talk to Kurt at "Aquavolt". You'll find him advertised in Afloat magazine where he also writes technical articles on all things elelectric which to me is a mysterious black art practiced by cone heads. I have found him very helpfull and patient over the phone.
Sorry to disappoint, but unles you have particular reason don't use touch panel.
They fail a lot, not fixable, change whole lot.
Recommend any switch panel with individual switches would be my option
It might look old fashion, but it is practical , considering you have to re- wire whole lot
to accommodate new set up and than a few years later, if you need to replace panel
Because a couple switches fail, the same panel might not be available, and you facing
second rewiring. Old fashion way, change faulty switch only and any further modification
even for non electrician is piece of.... I bet even I can guide you over Seabreeze
Select to expand quoteCharriot said..
Sorry to disappoint, but unles you have particular reason don't use touch panel.
They fail a lot, not fixable, change whole lot.
Recommend any switch panel with individual switches would be my option
It might look old fashion, but it is practical , considering you have to re- wire whole lot
to accommodate new set up and than a few years later, if you need to replace panel
Because a couple switches fail, the same panel might not be available, and you facing
second rewiring. Old fashion way, change faulty switch only and any further modification
even for non electrician is piece of.... I bet even I can guide you over Seabreeze
I am moving the switch panel from the previous owners location but what was worrying me is exactly what you said the touch panel
and the difficulty of repair.
I am also moving the combo Start and Battery panel which is mounted in the engine cover which is located behind the companion way steps so if at some stage you need to o excess the engine in this boat its nearly a two man job, one to hold the start panel while the other removes the engine cover away. This might be OK on a swing mooring but at sea no way. I will split the engine and battery panel and relocate both.
I'm a diesel fitter so its only a bit of time plus understanding this boat circuits will become part of me knowing exactly where every thing is located and all its circuits and circuit connections. Just like putting on a jumper it becomes part of you 
Try The Cover Guys not as fancy but still looks good.
www.thecoverguys.com.au/default.html
Look at mine the breakers indicator panel lights up when activated good for night time use
Select to expand quotewhiteout said..
Look at mine the breakers indicator panel lights up when activated good for night time use
Thanks Whiteout nice tidy wiring there
Ill take some photos of mine today and post them The previous owner was a scientist and has done reasonable job of the wring its just a basic home made ply wood switch panel rather large for a H28 and to me the engine panel is not in a good place I think on later model Walker H28 this panel was moved to a different location to make it easier to remove the engine cover
Cheers HG02
I would also like some info on setting up solar on this boat and what every one found resonable equipment
Tidy looking wiring but in a yacht or any boat where there is a possibility of moisture the wires should have loop downwards away from the terminal. Water will then drip off the bottom of the loop instead of running to the terminal. Just a tiny bit of extra cable required but may save you a lot of grief down the track.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Tidy looking wiring but in a yacht or any boat where there is a possibility of moisture the wires should have loop downwards away from the terminal. Water will then drip off the bottom of the loop instead of running to the terminal. Just a tiny bit of extra cable required but may save you a lot of grief down the track.
Also if you need to re terminate a cable, a bit of extra length means the difference between a 5 minute happy job and a 2 hour swearfest.
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..
I would also like some info on setting up solar on this boat and what every one found resonable equipment
one hint is to set a reverse relay switch on your solar output then when the sun goes down it flicks on the anchor light. when the sun come up the reverse happens.
Select to expand quotebubble7777 said..HG02 said..
I would also like some info on setting up solar on this boat and what every one found resonable equipment
one hint is to set a reverse relay switch on your solar output then when the sun goes down it flicks on the anchor light. when the sun come up the reverse happens.
nice one BubbleSelect to expand quotekeithw said..
what does the Buda do?
good thoughts thank you all
Started cleaning out the main cabin and washing it down today and a few twin core wires bare not sure if there connected yet I have both batteries disconnected at the moment . While you have the engine cover off the start and battery Isolators are hanging off the bunk you can easily bump them if your not careful.
Just wondered did Bukh up grade there alternators mine appears to have a external rectifier didn't have a real long look . Ill check it out tomorrow
Here my wiring Whiteout 
I have no idea what the silver box in this photo yet perhaps its part of the Fridge below. I sort it out next week
Also power up the fridge it "WORKS" Coooooooooooooooooool Beeeeeeeeeeeeeers next summer 
It might not look super tidy, but not a bad conditions at all.
Where are all switches?
It looks, when you switch off "house batteries " there are a few direct lines.
They normally go to auto-bilge, alarm, solar and etc. Are they fused?
Not sure how long going to be your beer coooool, but " Solid State Peltier Device " cooler
rated continues 3.8 Amps per hour, is a killer on the yacht.
That would be first thing, accidentally goes overboard.
Select to expand quoteCharriot said..
It might not look super tidy, but not a bad conditions at all.
Where are all switches?
It looks, when you switch off "house batteries " there are a few direct lines.
They normally go to auto-bilge, alarm, solar and etc. Are they fused?
Not sure how long going to be your beer coooool, but " Solid State Peltier Device " cooler
rated continues 3.8 Amps per hour, is a killer on the yacht.
That would be first thing, accidentally goes overboard.
have a reasonable supply of batteries(Freebeeies) at the moment but it will definitely be removed before it leaves port Phillip bay in a few years.
I did take a couple of shots but my HTC phone doesn't always up load them for some reason .
The Switch panel is rather large ply wood home made version. I have a piece of cardboard with which switch works what that came with the boat .
Also lots of very old Boucher's and plans assorts of goodies
The silver box is full of resistors. There is many scribbled down wiring diagrams even on the back of old used doctors prescriptions very interesting reading I might say
the previous own was a scientist who owned the boat for 25 years.He is now eighty and the boats need a little extra TLC
The bilges are clean as
This photo was taken a few weeks ago its a little more organized but you can see the switch board and the battery isolator and engine switch
Im not real keen on the engine and battery switches where they are as its a two person job to remove the engine panel one has to hold the engine switch panel while the other person removes the engine cover
