After reading some excellent posts on the subject, I think I might embark on a little project.
I have a few questions:
1) How do you estimate ideal fin length for a weedy? Is it the same as for a regular fin? If, for example, you are currently happy with a 40cm freeride fin, would you want to use a weed fin the same length?
2) How does one "un-box" a fin? Prior to re-boxing it, I mean?
3) Should I hack up a perfectly good G10 fin or is it better to stick to an old carbon fin -- keep in mind that I will be chopping a bit off and using fibreglass cloth & resin - unless there's another way.
4) Is there a good website which explains how to do it? I should've made that the first question, I know.....
Actually, I think that's all for now.
Thanks in advance! ![]()
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PS I found this thread already, good stuff!
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/Weed-Fins/
1st, a weed fin which is 40cm is measured from the box, or level with the bottom of the board. So a weedie at 40cm will be 56.4 cm long from the front of the box to the tip. The calculation for a weedie @ 45 degrees is 1.41 x the length. Getting complicated yet
? So if you want to mess around with the angle, you'll be trading off weed shedding ability but picking up lift, by moving the angle up to around 40 degrees. The calculation then becomes 1.39 x the length, so a 40cm weedie at 40 degrees becomes 55.6cm from base to tip.
On the box removal: I use a 9"x6" table top belt and disc sander, using the disc to remove the box. Remembering that I want to keep the shape of the fin without taking any more off than necessary. It helps not having a weak point around the base of the box.
Next thing you want is a split mould for the base.
Hopefully someone will take over from me as I have to go do some work (so I can earn enough to buy some more fins
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Nearly forgot: if you're going to use a pointer, try to stay away from slalom fins as they're too flat through the middle. When you angle them over to 40 odd degrees the flat surface area is increased, giving them no upwind ability and the dreaded spin out.
Weedies are best with minimal flex and a graduated profile, whatever problems you may encounter with a pointer will be increased when you tilt it over so iron out the problems first.
It's the depth measurement that's important to retain the balance of the board ( if you want to keep the footstraps on the rail). I've found a 32 weedie does pretty well as a replacement for a 36 upright on a 64 wide board. The centre of lift must be a bit higher on the weedie but it's OK. Anything smaller and the windward rail wants to drop. It's a lot of fin with a fair bit more drag, 42cm in the longest direction, but I think it best to tolerate the drag in favour of having the board feel balanced.
I've tried 38 degrees, it's Ok if the weed is light and you can get up to speed before you strike the first strand. In thick weed it's hard to get going.
45 degrees will plough through anything.
WELCOME WELCOME
TO THE ITCH !!
THIS IS THE BEST THING I EVER GOT INTO U LEARN SO MUCH ABOUT FINS LIFT STABILITY ECT ECT .. AND MEET A **** LOAD OF GREAT!! TINKER-ES ALONG THE WAY... ![]()
MY ADVICE
(A) START BY GETTING AN OLD WEED FIN AND HAVE A GO AT MAKING IT BETTER
GENERAL CENSUSES IS THAT THEY HAVE NO LIFT AND THERE NOT STIFF ENOUGH
EASY FIX CARBON AND SOME EPOXI WITH A COUPLE OF LAYERS OF GASS... DEPENDING ON MATERIAL ALREADY ON IT.. THEN RESHAPE IT.. LOTS ON THIS SUBJECT TOO ..
IN THE MEAN TIME MAKE A MOULD OF A BOX PLENTY ON THIS TOO
AND HERE whitelionwindsurfing.blogspot.com/
ONCE YOU HAVE A GOOD IDEA OF WHAT U WANT U CAN START HACKING YOUR NICE G10 AND PLAYING AROUND
MY BEST FINS TO DATE SPWEEDY 21.. 45Deg HAS DONE 41.04KN AND THE OTHER ONE THE SPWEEDY 19.. 42Deg 40.98KN BOTH OLD FINS I FOUND IN THE BOTTOM OF THE SHED..
I USED TO HATE WEEDYS BUT NOW I'M GLAD, AND PROUD THAT I ONLY SAIL ON MY FINS EVEN IF ITS NOT WEEDY.
I'VE ONLY JUST STARTED TO MAKE BIGGER FINS MY NEW ONE A 26 I USE THIS FOR MY FALCON 110 WITH A 6.7 AND 7.5 RSR TOP SPEED SO FAR 36.6KN ITS GOT MORE ![]()
JUST IN THE PROCESS OF MAKING A 24 FOR THE CASP50 for the 6.7 and 7.5m
DECREPIT AND IAN ARE THE TECH BOYS GOOD TO LISTEN TOO FULL OF GOOD ADVICE ... ALSO KEEF IS GREAT WITH HIS LOTIONS AND POTIONS "even if the tips come a bit late" ![]()
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THIS IS JUST TO NAME A FEW OF THE GREATS ! THERES PLENTY MORE.
I KNOW DECREPIT DOESNT LIKE THIS IDEA AS IT CAN DAMAGE YOUR BOARD... BUT TAKING THE FIN FORWARD IN THE BOX SHIFTS THE CENTRE OF EFFORT AND I LOVE THIS... AS THAT WAS ONE MAJOR REASON I DID'NT LIKE WEEDYS
GO OUT AND DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT EXPERIMENT !!
NEXT THING YOU'LL KNOW YOU'LL BE MAKING FULL MOULDS OF THE FINS AND LAYING THEM UP ... BUT TRUST ME YOU NEED A LOT OF TIME AND EXPERIMENTATION BE WARNED..
I HAD NO PRIOR KNOWLEDGE OF EPOXIS RESINS HARDENERS CARBON AND THEY CAN BE VERY FRUSTRATING... AND ITCHY !!ASK THE WIFE !!
TIP DONT LEAVE THE BACK DOOR OPEN WHILST SANDING WITH A GOOD SOUTHERLY BLOWING
OR THE WASHING OUT ![]()
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BUT ALL IN ALL VERY REWARDING GOOD LUCK WITH IT ALL.. LOOK FORWARD TO SOME GOOD RESULTS AND BEFOR YOU KNOW IT YOU'LL LOOK IN YA QUIVER AND THEY'LL ALL BE HACKED TO 45 ![]()
disclaimer I know i cant spell and any advice given was learnt by experimentation.
no expert.... just good results and allot of fun ![]()
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peace out ! sorry for shouting ![]()
Thanks for the wrap Leo, does my heart good to here your enthusiasm.
I think the problems with weedies increases with their size, that makes them more likely to flex.
A thin long weedy won't be much good at all.
I don't bother "unboxing" I just cut the base off at the required angle, and include the old base in the new, helps the fin sit square in the mold.
Unless the fin is thick, (9% thickness to flow ratio or more) and low aspect ratio, G10 by itself is usually not stiff enough for a weedy much over 25cm.
As before mentioned, this is where carbon comes in, but make sure it goes all the way thru the base. (In this case I do remove the old base moulding), this will thicken and stiffen the fin.
The thing to remember with changing fin angles is the accompanying change to thickness to flow ratio.
This is the main reason why a standard foil raked back 45deg doesn't work very well, as far as the water is concerned it's become about 20% thinner.
leo its a credit to to ya, it's not easy moulding a fin and keeping it all strait without twisting out of shape, not sure if i would try it ![]()
Looks good Leo, I've been tossing up whether to try a mould or not, but I keep changing my ideas on shape.
Currently I'm trying fins with a curved leading edge, less rake at the base (30-35deg) and more at the tip (40-50de4g).
Mainly because our worst weed problem grows up from the bottom in shallow water.
The weed on the surface gathers together and forms dense "weed island" even a 45deg fin comes to a dead stop when hitting them. So the idea is to avoid the weed islands, and use a fin more upright on average.
Just checked some fin prices online, and I have to say this DIY idea is starting to look VERY good...
I need a weed fin for Safety Bay, Tuttle box, for my 85 Sonic with a 5m Koncept.
Any recommendations?
Regarding fin length, the Lessacher website: www.cameraid.com/lessacher/weed.html recommends the 40cm weed fin for sails around 10.5m, and 32cm for 8m...
hey mate the reason i did a mould is because i got to something i loved and every time i headed down south another 3 mm would disappear so before i destroyed it i fixed it all up and made a mould ,... well two messed up the first one rushing and it twisted;-(
the second one i did worked a treat I've pulled three from it the third went in today with a few tweaks to compounds and lay up just to see the difference.
I'm going to make a mould of the 19 cm spweedy too as soon as i get time and money together it is a long process, but i am getting much better ;-)
look forward to results decrepit ... I'm just in the process of doing the 24 cm at 40 deg for the sp50 just need some wind for testing god NSW SUCKS !!
speak soon buddy
Made this mould for a freestyle fin, it's basic and a little messy but pops them out with little trouble.. It's a little big, and so far I have just cut the copies in half and reboxed the tips, or I plan to use it as a base to grind down new shapes to then make more moulds from..
I'm sure there is a better way but I've got more important projects than fins, which don't do anything..
here's an old tiga re boxed, i think it was called wind action , its a G10 laminated in some sort of rubber, had to rout 5mm or deeper and laid up carbon and re foiled amazingly the carbon has a perfect bond the tip is full rubber stuff and flexes its weird, just have to give it a go
the box is designed for the forward set fins so you don't drive holes into the bottom of your board getting them out as well as hitting rocks where the fin useually smashes the box and exposes the core
decrepit have you tried a couple of layers of 9oz satin its extremely hard to sand
I'm going with keef on the next lay up 9oz satin see if it works ...