Got my hands on two very cheap brand new epoxy 9" longboards. Unridden they look great and the shape and the thruster fin set up is what i was after, problem is in the thickness and rails. The rails are around the 3' in the middle and there is very little taper towards the tail or nose.
Rode one of the boards yesterday and it went ok, but way to much volume in the board. Given its thickness it was great on the nose but didnt need that much volume.
Given the boards werent that expensive I am thinking of de-glassing the deck and reshapping better rails and taking some of the volume out of it. Bassically thinning it out. What thoughts or advice do people have on this type of project.
P.S I popped the post here as the last advice i got from here regarding my surftech repair (profile picture) was great - a great fix was the result of some good advice from the forum, Boards been back in action for a month and a bit now and going well.
how much do you think it will cost to reglass the board, and why would you want to waste your money and time on a long board
why dont you sell them both as a cheep package and with the money it would have cost you to repair, get a cheep short wider board like a formula you can get them cheep, as well you can use bigger sails
In terms of re-shape and re-glass, my idea was to hit the deck with the sander and basically strip the deck glass back to the EPS core and take about an inch of foam (maybee less from the entire deck and then re-roll my rails and re-laminate the deck.
Basically the outline of the board and fin position is great, just a chunk of a board.
the boards only cost 500 each or 250 each and 500 freight, the outline and fin set out is great it is just the thickness, ebay is littered with longboards, so i would rather fix my experiment gone wrong'...I will keep one board as is, for long fat points, but i want the other one for higher perfomence.
I have the epoxy resin from my last fix, just need to get 6 oz cloth, maybee 2 layers with a 4 oz deck patch. Just was looking for some repair advice, regarding where to join layers and the likes.
It is for stand up surfing, i posted in the wind surf section as it evident that you guys are massivly clued up with epoxy when it comes to DIY and repairs ulinke the surfing fraternity,and were a great help in my last project. The board is not a composite construction epoxy.
cheers be
why dont you post a pic of these boards, im sure you have given this a lot of thought,do you realise your going to end up with huge holes in the e,p,s core where the foot straps and mast base was located, as well you will have to re divinicell the deck, it sounds like a huge job, let me know how its going
They're surfboards Keef. They dont have footstraps and mast bases. If they are sandwich construction it would be less work building one from scratch. If it's just a glassed blank try running a sharp blade around where you want to reshape and peeling the glass off (might even be easier peeling the whole lot and reglass whole thing) Sanding the glass off would not be any fun at all.
Keef.
Maybee i am confusing you.
The board, is a longboard (surfboard) - like endless summer. Not a sailboard
Posted in this section as you guys have far better knowledge of the reapir side of epoxy fibreglass.
The board isnt a composite. just a blank, stringer and epoxy glass.
just though you guys might be helpfull.
i wouldnt be useing an outer core unless you have a vaccume pump to compress it onto the core, and the problem with laminateing without bageing is that the resin falls into the core then you have to fill the glass, if you can get some 9oz satin weave just with extra where you stand
Board is just a blank wit epoxy glass - not sure what type of core as yet. Either way will be sterring cleer of core materials, will will go for a heavier laminate job (maybee even 3xoz) on deck. I realise the top of the blank will be softer as i go deeper but i dont want to disturb the FCS plugs underneath and am happy with the bottom of the rails. Will more than likely take all the foam by hand as oppossed to electric planner (what thoughts).
any thought on where to overlap the glass?
reminds me of a joke , a tourist was travelling through Ireland and stopped to ask a local which was the best way to get to dublin? the local replied well if i was you i wouldn't be starting from here![]()
Are you sure it's epoxy???
Without sandwich construction or carbon involved, that's either going to be soft or heavy.
Epoxy isn't as hard as polyester, (although lighter and tougher) normally epoxy is used because the foam is polystyrene.
Polystyrene is usually softer than polyester, so if you have styrene/epoxy/glass construction, I'd guess it would need at least 3 layers of 6oz on the deck and would probably still be soft.
"Clubby" paddle boards are made this way, but they have very thick kneeling pads, in knee wells. Think they would soon get big heel dents and delaminate if used in stand up mode.
Hey be,
I'm really glad to hear that your windsurfer is resurrected
How did you end up repairing it? Do you have any photos of the finished product?
Good luck with this next project, go for it. Even if it doesn't turn out the way you want you will still learn heaps (and hopefully post your experiences on here so that others can learn as well). And if it does turn out well then you will have the most satisfying ride ever ![]()
Nebbian.
ai guess the reason that i am willing to take this project on is due to the fact my last reapir went so well. i will pop some photos up in the coming days to show it off.
I ordered these boards through china (problem right there) and the thickness is there only let down. After my last fix, i am thinking why not!
If you got the boards cheap... why not sell them off and then buy what you want/need.
Once you cut them down and start re-shaping the re-sale value will be almost non-existent.
Any particular reason you didn't source the boards locally and that way ensure you actually get what you paid for ?
Some would say you have got a bargain getting 2 x boards so cheap... but if they require major modifications is it really a bargain ?
I snapped an epoxy short board last year and a mate of mine helped resurrect it... in my opinion it was only possible as the bottom layer had not cracked or torn so the shape and integrity of the outer layer had not be compromised beyond the point of no return.
We ended up using a complicated series of ropes, wood and struts to ensure the board went back together without twisting, moving or separating from its original shape.
This was an extremely difficult and time consuming process where the rails were concerned.
In my opinion if you have 2 brand new boards you are far better off selling them and buying closer to what you actually require or what you actually wanted in the first place.
Kev
I've just finished shortening a board, i will tell you it's not worth all the effort modifying a board too much, i took about 25cm from the nose, but the old one was already snapped off. it involved alot of work and i'm used to this as i repair boards as a sideline business.., it would be much easier to start from a block of foam as blending in glass where you leave the original in tact is a right pain.. but painting the board after it was finished was fun as always..
iv;e found doing nose jobes a piece of cake, dont worry about re divinicelling and use carbon uni, the stuff thats held together with well it looks like cobwebs and use a fiberglass wheel it smooths out like spreeding butter.make a bag around it held with blue tack, if you want to make the blue tack really sticky, stick a bit of xylol on it the stuff thats used to cleanup and thin epoxy
with the uni you can feather it into the old glass theres no stop and start like you get with woven glass
Just rode one of the boards out sandon point today, take it all back, went like a dream. i normally ride a 9'1 surftech byrne and this board was super loose and responsive and hung in on the nose better than my other board. I need to put bigger fins in it (it is a thruster set up) maybee GR's. Still to thick but you dont notice it in the water.
Only problem is i landed on the deck and cracked it righ on top of the stinger (cheap imports) so i might peel it back and have a squiz at it.
Keef whats this carbon stuff? I have been using a soft mix of Q-cell in stead of Divinicell - it seeps into all the crack and the absorption and compression strenth is great.
I should post some pics of the board.